Thats the problem.
Ok, I took apart my motor when the head gasket went out on me. Then I got it all back together and I still had water and oil mixing. So, I took it all back apart re did it. Now its back together and running but not well. Maybe timing, maybe valves? I dont know. Also, I put new oil in it but I dodnt drop the pan and clean it out first. I pulled the dipstick a couple minuets ago and the oil is completly white and disgusting looking again, but I pulled the oil cap and their isnt any foam under it. Would the left over oil residue in the pan be enough to make all that new oil turn white and gross? Or do I still ahve water and oil mixing? I have filled up the radiator twice and I pulled the cap and it looks dry again. How much water does the motor hold? Is the water just filling up the dry water passages and leaving the radiator dry so I need to fill it back up or does that mean my water and oil are mixing?
Thanks in advance for any advice and if anyone is willing to come over and look at it and help me that would be awesome. I live in orangevale near greenback and kenneth.
did you have the head machined after the head gasket went out?
im in the middle of putting my 22re back together after i blew a head gasket as well. im not having the mixing problem but my truck wont start now. it turns over and cranks but wont actually start. i have no clue what it might be any advice would help. and for the original post did you check to see if maybe the head was cracked at all anywhere?
Toyota.
Thats the problem.
C.J.- I took my head over to Bud in Orangevale and it turned out it was no good so I bought a re-manufactured head off of him so my head shouldnt be the problem.
Moyer21- I guess ing your problem is timing. Are you sure you got the timing chain on correctly? That is realy important. If so, double check your distributer. Their is a good chance your distributor is 180 degrees off of where it should be. Move your distributer around 180 degrees and see if she starts.
So I think my oil is all white again just because I havnt dropped the oil pan or changed the filter yet so it just got contaminated by stuff that was already in there. I'm thinking my problem is valves but I'm not sure. If anyone knows anything about these 22re motors and is willing to come over and listen to it that would be great.
Go to Kragen and buy a oil pan gasket, 10 quarts of cheap ass oil, and two filters. Drop your pan, clean it out real well, reinstall the pan. Change the filter and fill it up with 5 quarts of cheap oil. Run it for 15-30 minutes and see how the oil looks. If it looks real milky drain and repeat. If not to bad drain and repeat but run that oil for a couple of days (keep an eye on the color) then drain and put good shit in it. If the second go round is still real milky start looking for another problem elsewhere.
Toyota.
Thats the problem.
Hey now! Atleast they did not circle the problem right from the factory like Ford did!
im in the middle of putting my 22re back together after i blew a head gasket as well. im not having the mixing problem but my truck wont start now. it turns over and cranks but wont actually start. i have no clue what it might be any advice would help. and for the original post did you check to see if maybe the head was cracked at all anywhere?
Check for vacuum leaks, and make sure you have all the electrical plugs hooked up.
i looked at the distributor and its the only way it can go its got a single bolt holding it in on the outside. im just really at a loss of what the problem is
all connectors that were hooked up prior to tear down are reinstalled. and i cant actually get the truck to start to check for vacuum leaks
Pull number one spark plug wire stick a screw driver in the plug wire boot hold the platic handle of the screw driver and hold the shaft part of the screw driver next to the the powersteering pump bracket crank the engine. If you see spark make sure timing is good and verify your fuel system is hooked up correctly. All you need is fuel spark and air. I asume your mas air folw is plugged in and ducting is hooked up.
i looked at the distributor and its the only way it can go its got a single bolt holding it in on the outside. im just really at a loss of what the problem is
180 out on the distributer does not mean the physical "case" of the dist. is 180 out, the rotor inside is 180 out. Pull the cap off and you will see the rotor!
so its getting spark, fuel and air. but still nothing i took the distributor and rotated while trying to crank it and no change. when i took the head off i put zip ties around the timing chain and sprocket so i dont really think that the timing is really off. i charged the battery as well so its fresh while trying to crank so i have no idea
Make surew your timing is all correct I bet that is your problem.
time to pull it back apart and make sure your not off a tooth or two on the chain and to make sure that your distributer is in the corect position! thats what it sounds like to me anyway!
Moyer21- Get yourself a good manual with pitures of what we're talking about. It sounds to me like you dont quit understand what we're saying about the distributor rotor being 180 degrees off. In all the toyotas I've seen thats the most common cause of what your dealing with. If that doesnt do it I'd say pull your valve cover and timing chain cover off and make sure that chain is in the right place at the crank and cam. Thats important and can deffinatly cause your problem.
I sure hope I figure out my problem today. Seeing how my post turned into a discussion about Moyer21's truck.haha
x 2 if you have spark than its timing. You said you had fuel right?
There is also a terminal to the left of the engine compartment you have to jump with a wire to get true timing. The sticker on the hood should show you which one.
There is also a terminal to the left of the engine compartment you have to jump with a wire to get true timing. The sticker on the hood should show you which one.
But that terminal means nothing untill he is in time.
Spencer pull the distributer out toss it on the ground. Put the engine on tdc # 1. While the distributer is on the ground put the cap on it and mark the distributer were the rotor would be pointing at tdc # 1 then put the thing back in the engine with the rotor pointing at your mark. Then you know you are good. When you role to tdc make sure you are on your mark on the pulley and the # 1 int and exh valve are bothe loose.
i pulled the distributor yesterday and lined up the rotor with number on the cap. still no good. im gonna have to wait till this weekend and check all the timing and dig back into it
you can put the distributor in at 90 degree increments to tdc #1 as long as you change the wire placement.....each will give you a little bit different adjustment range, even a tooth off maxed out one way will usually get you close.... Timing is not the issue when I looked at it, I fear you have multiple issues with this thing, after I fixed his exhaust leak since o2 sensors are at the egr on later models and not in the manifold they need good exhaust pressure to read correctly, after that when cold the thing ran normal as soon as the cold start cycle closed the thing fell on its face which leads me to a fuel issue or lots of water in the cylinders also major vacuum leaks especially in the intake tube can cause that also, I haven't looked at it since his second head gasket change but fear this thing is toast
I will try and make it by sometime today give me a call and let me know when your home
There is also a terminal to the left of the engine compartment you have to jump with a wire to get true timing. The sticker on the hood should show you which one.
plugged it is usually advanced a couple degrees it wont cause a way off problem, plus a few more degrees advance will only cause the thing to feel like it runs better smoother and torquier(if thats a word...lol)