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OVkid
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1989 XJ 6.5" lift Long Arms. 4.56 Gears. 36's

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SAS (20th Nov 09 at 7:18am UTC)
Alright. I'm collectin parts to do a SAS on my 91 yota. This will be my first SAS so I'm lookin for a few tips from those of you who know your stuff. Heres what I have and what I think I still need. please let me know if I'm missing anything.

Parts I have:

4" lift rancho leaf springs for front

2" lift shckles for the front

long steel braided brake lines for the front

1983 yota axle hub-hub

all 4 rancho rs5000 shocks

BFG 35x12.5 Muds

What I think I still need:

high steer

front brake rotors (or can I use the stock ones of my 1991 on the new axle?)

U-bolt flip kit

bump stops

Shock hoopes

chevy 63" leafs for the rear

lift shackles for the rear

long steel brake lines for the rear

spring hanger for the front

Axle gusset to give the 83' axle some more support



The scars on my knuckles match the scuffs on my cowboy boots
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Re: SAS (20th Nov 09 at 11:48pm UTC)
 
Alright. I'm collectin parts to do a SAS on my 91 yota. This will be my first SAS so I'm lookin for a few tips from those of you who know your stuff. Heres what I have and what I think I still need. please let me know if I'm missing anything.

Parts I have:

4" lift rancho leaf springs for front You will change these for somthing diffrent soon.

2" lift shckles for the front I assume they are 6" hole to hole correct? Make sure you get frame templates and go through the frame with the shackle mount

long steel braided brake lines for the front

1983 yota axle hub-hub Make sure you have matching gears with the rear end BEFORE you put it in 4x4 so you dont tear somthing up, also you may need a new mount flange for the driveline. There is 3 different patterns if I am not mistaken, Marlin and TG both sell a multi pattern flange you may want to look into

all 4 rancho rs5000 shocks Again you will ditch these in favor of somthing better before to long. How long are they? Are they long enough to work for now? There is a trick to the rear shocks as well, mount them like this / \ they will bind less when flexed

BFG 35x12.5 Muds Not a bad tire to start with

What I think I still need:

high steer Definatly, you can not do a SAS with out it, check out Sky Manufacturing, they make a kit that will use your existing pitman arm.

front brake rotors (or can I use the stock ones of my 1991 on the new axle?) You want vented land cruser rotors. Look into Sky Man. again, they have a kit to use some of your IFS stuff to widen your stance with out using the typical 1.5" wheel spacers, however the spacers are cheaper if your budget cant swing it.

U-bolt flip kit Mind as well get 2, put one on the rear also, save you some hangups!

bump stops Not needed imediatly. I ran with out them for YEARS! I do have them now, but if you are tight on money they can wait a while.

Shock hoopes Make sure you brace them back off the frame or you will RIP them off the frame.

chevy 63" leafs for the rear Good, cheap, and get the job done. Keep in mind that with these though you need to move both hangers, so you will need new front spring hangers, and if you are carefull and take your time you can cut the shackle hangers off and reuse them.

lift shackles for the rear Yep.

long steel brake lines for the rear Not lineS just one in the rear, there is a center line that runs down to a tee on the axle. At this point you will also need to address your LSPV, load sencing porporsioning(sp) valve. I bypassed mine and through it in the trash.

spring hanger for the front You have two options, make it or buy it.

Axle gusset to give the 83' axle some more support Again this can wait awhile, I have been beating on a non gusseted '82 axle for the better part of 10 years now, it still is not bent, just dont jump it!




That is some of my advise for you. Some other thing you will look into in the future will be a crawler and some upgraded front axle shafts. Give it time and you will see what you want/need for your type of wheelin. I have done most everything to my several trucks over the years short of coil overs. Here is a pic of my rig for some insperation on the SAS and getting on the trail.

Image

Image

Image

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yeagley
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Re: SAS (21st Nov 09 at 1:57am UTC)
The 83 axle housing is better than the 84 85 ones that everyong thinks you need. You get more ground clearance and you dont need square u bolts. These axles dont bend in between the springs, they bend at the knuckle ball. Get a knuckle ball gusset kit. I always like helping out newbie yota guys. If you want to stop by my house I will show you exactly what you need to do. You can look at my 4runner build on here too (Coles 4runner).
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Re: SAS (21st Nov 09 at 2:10am UTC)
Yea I gusseted my knuckle balls as well, but I did it on the super cheap! I had some angle iron laying around that I cut/ground to fit perfect and welede it in! I will see if I cn find a picture of it.

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Re: SAS (21st Nov 09 at 4:07am UTC)
Kevin pretty much covered it except dont use the stock pitman arm they break fj60 ends are stronger and thats what is used on most kits... sky also makes a flat pitman arm that I like!!! there IFS hub kit is awesome Cole and I both run em... and get a steering box mount kit even though you already have a IFS steering box the stock frame sleeves and mounts are not strong enough and you will rip your frame apart plus it needs to be moved forward to keep steering geometry correct without the drag link and tie rod coming in contact with eachother, and like kevin said about the springs you will change them soon, better off going with rears up front I have a spare set I may be interested in getting rid of cheap..... Like Cole said stop by the house we have a host of toyota shit around here

'85 xtracab 116"wheelbase, R10 duals, 5.29's, 38's

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Re: SAS (21st Nov 09 at 4:38am UTC)
 
Kevin pretty much covered it except dont use the stock pitman arm they break fj60 ends are stronger and thats what is used on most kits... sky also makes a flat pitman arm that I like!!! there IFS hub kit is awesome Cole and I both run em... and get a steering box mount kit even though you already have a IFS steering box the stock frame sleeves and mounts are not strong enough and you will rip your frame apart plus it needs to be moved forward to keep steering geometry correct without the drag link and tie rod coming in contact with eachother, and like kevin said about the springs you will change them soon, better off going with rears up front I have a spare set I may be interested in getting rid of cheap..... Like Cole said stop by the house we have a host of toyota shit around here



FJ80 TRE's, I have never had a problem with my pitman arm but I also have hydro assist to help with the stress on the pitman arm.

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OVkid
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Re: SAS (21st Nov 09 at 8:13pm UTC)
YeagleY- If i could swing by your house sometime just to look at your rig and bounce some ideas off you about mine that would be great. So many people say so many things, itd be nice to come see what you actualy run on your truck and what works well.

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Re: SAS (22nd Nov 09 at 8:41pm UTC)
 



FJ80 TRE's, I have never had a problem with my pitman arm but I also have hydro assist to help with the stress on the pitman arm.


sorry fj80...lol there the same though it doesnt matter... even my fj80 end is looking harsh on my pitman arm but theres assist on it now!!!!

'85 xtracab 116"wheelbase, R10 duals, 5.29's, 38's

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